My trip down the west shore of Lake Huron began when I finished sketching on Lake Michigan—McGulpin Point Lighthouse. Driving past the Straits of Mackinac I was now in a new domain. Lake Huron was a fresh chance for more sketching. In late afternoon, I arrived in Mackinaw City, sat in Alexander Henry Park, and sketched the Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse, first the tower and then the whole package. The soft light of the setting sun made the edifice even more attractive.

The 1892 Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse, consisting of tower, keepers’ dwellings, fog signal building, barn, and oil house,was built just east of Fort Michilmackinac to mark the narrowest point and the east entrance to the Straits of Mackinac. The Cream City brick lighthouse became part of Michilmackinac State Park in 1960. According to TravelMag.com’s 2023 post, Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse is one of the 20 most beautiful lighthouses in the US.

Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse tower with some pretty fancy brickwork.

Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse FIRST FLOOR PLAN VIEW. Duplex arrangement with two main entries, two kitchens, and two sets of stairs.

Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse NORTH ELEVATION VIEW. Someone took pains to make this a spectacular building.

In the morning, after an attack of Chironomids—nonbiting midges or lake flies—I signed up for a tour of the lighthouse guided by a young man in full dress keeper’s uniform. Then a visit to the Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association Headquarters just across the street from the lighthouse. After that a short drive on US-23 took me to Cheboygan, Michigan.

As I pulled up at Cheboygan River Front Range Lighthouse, Sherry was out tending the grounds. “I see by the lighthouse on your license plate that you’re a lighthouse aficionado,” I said looking for common ground.

“Yes, I’m a board member of GLLKA. Being a board member means doing the work that needs to be done.”

“I’ve been a board member back home in Minnesota, so I can relate. It’s an honor that comes with chores.”

The old concrete marine cable container—which had contained backup cable for the shoal light—had been cleaned out and filled with dirt so it could become a garden. Sherry had ordered four large parcels of peat moss and was going to add it to the soil. I offered to help move the heavy peat moss bundles. My part of the task completed, she toured me through the lighthouse starting with the gift shop in the Coast Guard addition—which I conveniently left out of my sketch.

In the dining room, the 100 year old table and chairs were original to the lighthouse, contributed by Linda McLeod Birely great granddaughter of John Duffy, keeper from 1899 to 1931. Linda also donated her great grandfather’s buffet and a hutch. These were wonderful donations which contributed authenticity—step back in time.

Sherry said that at its peak, Cheboygan had a population of 20,000, now 5,000. “They built the town thinking the pines would last forever,” she observed.

For me, it was great to have this conversation after all my days of aloneness and quietude.

In 1880 front and rear range lights were established to define entrance to the Cheboygan River. The Cheboygan River Front Range Lighthouse, a wood structure now covered with aluminum siding, has a wood lantern room. Since range lights are aligned and need only a narrow arc of visibility, a multisided lantern room wasn’t necessary. In 1891 the still standing circular cast iron oil house was added. Five gallon kerosene butts were brought by the USLHT Marigold and stored in the circular cast iron oil house which had been put together in 1891.Great Lakes Lighthouse Keepers Association owns and maintains the still active lighthouse.

Cheboygan River Rear Range Lighth sits on a steel tower that looks a little bowed in this sketch, sorry. The daymarks match those on the front range lighthouse.

A wood crib marking the entrance to the Cheboygan River was built in the late 1870s by the Army Corps of Engineers, and in 1884 the octagonal cast iron Cheboygan Crib Lighthouse was placed thereon by the Lighthouse Board. But 100 years later the crib was badly tilted, and the lighthouse itself was moved to a new foundation at the mouth of the river. It is now owned by the City of Cheboygan but maintained by GLLKA. The breakwater supports the Cheboygan Pier Light, and farther out on a freestanding crib the 1930 Fourteen Foot Shoal Lighthouse.

The Cheboygan Crib Lighthouse is a symbol for the area. It is the logo for not only the City of Cheboygan and the Cheboygan Chamber of Commerce, but also for the Cheboygan Tourist Bureau, and the Cheboygan Daily Tribune.

Then another 40 miles on US-23 to 40 Mile Lighthouse. Friendly volunteers showed me around and explained that it’s named 40 Mile because it’s 40 miles from Cheboygan and 40 miles to Alpena.

40 Mile Point Lighthouse was built in 1896, the plan similar to Big Bay Point Lighthouse on Lake Superior built the same year—mirror image duplexes. Title was transferred to Presque Isle County in 1971. 40 Mile Point Lighthouse Society maintains the property and operates the gift shop.

It was a short drive to Presque Isle (New) Lighthouse, where Anna Garraty had been keeper for 23 years—the longest tenure of any of the 52 female keepers on the Great Lakes. In 1903 at the age of 31, she took over from her father. Anna was part of a long line of lighthouse keepers, but a female keeper was somewhat of a rarity, especially with a male assistant keeper. A statue in Range Light Beach honors her service.

Presque Isle is French for almost an island, referring to a peninsula connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus. The Poe Style New Presque Isle Lighthouse was built in 1871 at the north end of the peninsula separating North Bay from Presque Isle Harbor. At 114 feet, it’s the tallest on Lake Huron—a taller version of the 1840 Old Presque Isle Lighthouse at the south end of the peninsula. An adjacent keepers’ dwelling with mansard roof was built in 1905. Presque Isle Township owns the light and Presque Isle Lighthouse Historical Society maintains it.

As I returned down East Grand Lake Road toward the highway there sat a miniature lighthouse, Presque Isle Front Range Lighthouse.

Orlando Poe designed the attractive Presque Isle Front Range Lighthouse in 1870—I know that’s hard to believe, but here it is sandwiched between two boring Poe Style white towers at either end of the peninsula. The rear range light was atop the keeper’s quarters. In 1967 a rather plain tower replaced the front range light and it was relocated to the main road. The information sign says it’s actually been rebuilt according to the original plans.

I spent the night at the rather out of the way AmericInn in Oscoda, Michigan. There weren’t any good choices for restaurants along the deserted main drag—many were closed—so I drove up the hill to the Hilltop Bar and Grill. Everybody in town was there. I watched the pool players and had a couple NorEaster hazy IPAs along with my grilled chicken sandwich. Don’t think I blended, but it was fun to pretend.

This was my best day so far; sunny blue sky weather continued. Five lighthouses in Cheboygan alone and a friendly GLLKA board member to chat with.

Next day the desk clerk gave me a couple sets of directions to Twas Point Lighthouse. I don’t know why he thought I’d need more than one, but I was much obliged. Picked up an Egg McMuffin, large orange juice and coffee in East Twas as I angled down to the point. At the state park a large campground awaited me but all quiet, everyone asleep in I guess.

The 1853 Twas Point Lighthouse found itself well inland as the point grew in size geographically. Furthermore, the lighthouse was going to pieces. A replacement Poe Style lighthouse was built in 1877, additional crib protection was added in 1884, a fog signal building in 1899, in 1922 an assistant keeper’s dwelling was relocated here from another site, and in 1927 the Lighthouse Service launched an unusual project—reforestation with 20,000 Norway Pines. The State of Michigan purchased the lighthouse from the Coast Guard in 2002, and it was deactivated in 2015.

After an exceedingly tedious 120 mile drive around Saginaw Bay, I arrived at Pointe aux Barques. I dragged out my folding chair and proceeded to make a sketch of the Pointe Aux Barques Lighthouse and the attached dwelling. A volunteer keeper came by to look at the sketch. He told me that the French named this Pointe Aux Barques, Point of Small Ships, because that’s what they saw when they arrived at the point.

Pointe Aux Barques is a critical juncture between Saginaw Bay and Lake Huron. The first Pointe Aux Barques Lighthouse was put up in 1849 and replaced by a brick structure in 1857. A Life Saving Station, the first on the Great Lakes, was opened at Pointe Aux Barques in 1876 but retired in 1937. In 1958 Huron County purchased the property for Lighthouse County Park, and the lighthouse itself was given over in 2004. The newly assembled Pointe aux Barques Lighthouse Society takes care of it. Through its Assistant Lighthouse Keeper Program couples can stay at the lighthouse and clerk in the gift shop, docent, and clean up and repair the premises.

I zipped down US-23 to Port Sanilac—not Similac—and there sat Port Sanilac Lighthouse on a city street amidst a row of handsome houses. A five foot fence of tightly spaced cedar boards enclosed the property making it impossible to sketch while sitting comfortably on my folding chair. However, walking out through the adjacent parking area and onto the breakwater, I was able to get a pretty good vantage point.

The Port Sanilac Lighthouse was completed in 1886, providing a coastal light between Pointe Aux Barques and Fort Gratiot. The unique stepped parapet on the lakeside—similar to some I’d seen in Sweden—gives the dwelling its character. The lighthouse property has been privately held since way back in 1928.

One more lighthouse before we call it a day. On to Port Huron, Michigan. Fort Gratiot Lighthouse was right there in Lighthouse Park just next to the Port Huron Coast Guard Station. I noticed that there seemed to be fewer breakwater lights on Lake Huron than on Lake Michigan, perhaps fewer ports. The tall Poe Style towers appeared to be more prevalent—I’d just sketched five of them.

Fort Gratiot was put up in 1814 to guard the inflow of St Claire River. Winslow Lewis got the contract for the Fort Gratiot Lighthouse but subcontracted it to a Rochester, New York, firm. Construction was completed in 1825 making it the oldest lighthouse in Michigan. However, there were fatal flaws, and a new lighthouse had to be built a few years later. Steam fog signal building was added in 1871. The fog horn got good use that fall during the smokey conditions caused by fires in Port Huron, Peshtigo, and Chicago all of which started on the same day in October. St Clair County took over ownership of the lighthouse in 2010 and it’s been well maintained.

I rested my pencil—this trip’s final sketch. But wait, there’s still daylight; it’s almost midsummer. I’d planned to spend the night in Port Huron but decided to put on a few more miles and move on to Flint, Michigan. The Holiday Inn Express sat in the middle of nowhere surrounded by interstate highways. For dinner, at the suggestion of the desk clerk, I backtracked 12 miles to Lucky’s Steakhouse and sourced a Martini to celebrate the trip. As I worked on the plan for tomorrow, I pondered the trip.

It was now ended even though I’d need two more days of traveling before I got home. All in all, this was just a dandy trip, weather perfect every day. A bit rushed on account of the opening reception for an exhibit of my drawings at Landmark Center in St Paul. But no glitches. I’d like to do this trip again, perhaps counterclockwise starting in Detroit—we’ll see.

The only snag on the whole journey occurred the next morning when I discovered my calendar and perpetual list were missing—must have left them at Lucky’s although I didn’t recall bringing them in with me. Lucky’s didn’t open until 11:00. Yikes! Three hours of angst loomed, but upon searching further, the lost were found, the black covered calendar had just squished down in my black backpack. Deep breath, only one hour wasted.

Now back on I-94 to Rockford, Illinois, where I grew up. The plan was a night in Rockford, then a late breakfast with my friends Martha and Glen in Fitchburg, Wisconsin.

With a couple of hours to burn, I drove around Rockford and was hit by a tsunami of memory snippets triggered by places, past events, and people—many gone now.

To paraphrase Pascal Mercier:

When you leave a place where you’ve spent some time, a part of you stays there…when you revisit, you time travel back to the memories.

That night I asked the Holiday Inn clerk where I could eat with a view. He recommended Prairie Street Brewing Company on the Rock River. As the sun set over the river, I chatted with the couple at the next table. They’d grown up here and agreed this factory town was now like a donut, empty in the middle.

Next day the interminable flatness of the Illinois prairie gradually gave way to the gently rolling hills of western Wisconsin. In the Driftless Area no glaciers had come to flatten the hills. Green leaves everywhere, freshly emerged. And soon I was home.

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